This elegant, generous-sized Cheval Mirror swivels on two turned pins to adjust for the perfect, full-length view, no matter where the viewer stands or how tall he or she may be.
Start the project by gluing up the stock for the side spindles. Be sure these pieces can be cut to a full 2″ x 2″ x 34″ long. Before turning, use your drill press to drill dowel holes in the spindle stock for attaching the legs and stretcher, along with the pivot pin holes.
Use a Taper Guide to taper he spindle stock on all four sides 1/4″ over a length of 26″ from the top end (See Fig. 1), before turning them on the lathe. Next, sand the turned spindles smooth and apply masking tape to the areas where the legs and stretcher will be glued to them and apply your finish to them before you remove them from the lathe, then turn the pivot pins in the same manner to the exact dimensions given in the drawings.
Now, cut the stock for the mirror frame, stretcher and legs to size on the table saw. Use your Dado set-up to cut the 3/8″ deep by 3/8″ wide rabbet in the back of the frame stock.
Use your Bandsaw and your Drum Sander to carefully shape the legs. Switch your MARK V to Horizontal Boring mode and drill the dowel holes in the legs and the stretcher (See Fig. 2).
For best results, miter the ends of the stiles and ails of the mirror frame with a carbide-tipped combination or hollow ground saw blade…then cut the 1/2″ deep spline kerfs on the ends of each piece and make the splines (See Power Tool Woodworking, Page 48). Use your Bandsaw to cut the contour on the top rail, then dry assemble the frame and base assembly. Mark the location of 5/8″ pivot pin holes in the sides and drill them.
Round the top edges of the legs and stretcher with your Shaper set-up and a 1/4″ quarter-round shaper cutter. As an alternative, you could also use the Shopsmith Routing Package with a 1/4″ Round Over Bit. If you’d like a more decorative edge on your mirror frame, use an Ogee Shaper Cutter or Router Bit…being careful to stop, then re-start your cut around the pivot pin holes to avoid cutting into them.
Next, glue and clamp the base assembly and the frame assembly together. Once they’ve dried, apply the finish of your choice. Install the mirror in the frame and back it with 1/8″ hardboard. Mount the mirror frame to the base with the pivot pins and 3/8″ I.D. O-Rings (faucet repair parts, available wherever plumbing supplies are sold). These O-Rings will supply the friction to keep the mirror positioned where you want it when tilted.
Fasten the pins to the frame with 3/4″ flathead wood screws, secured from the back through the pivot pins.
